By Jo-Ann Clegg
The Virginian-Pilot

VIRGINIA BEACH, Va. — Unlike their military counterparts, firefighters on duty pay for their own food.

Like the generations of ladder-climbing, hose-hauling smoke-eaters who preceded them, they also do their own cooking. Which is why, on a recent Thursday evening, master firefighter Will Gilbert was juggling the breast of a 25-pound wild turkey, breading fish fillets and searching for a skillet large enough to hold 4 pounds of corn kernels, an onion or two, some bacon and a handful of chopped jalapenos.

The meals are cook's choice, but the crew's general likes and dislikes are factors. Spaghetti is always a favorite. Anyone who doesn't care for what's on the table can graze from prior leftovers.

The method of payment varies from company to company. Company 1 maintains a kitty for staples. They shop daily, buying mostly specials and quick sale items to keep the costs down.

"Food only a firefighter would eat," they call their bargains. They chip in to cover the costs.

There's also sort of a quid pro quo where one will bring in something special like Gilbert's turkey and fish or donate a few day's supply of ice cream.

Gilbert's recent "wild" meal showed off a little of his rural roots. The turkey had been gobbling and gamboling in the Blue Ridge the week before. The fish had been swimming in Back Bay a bit more than 24 hours earlier. Gilbert shot the turkey, hooked the fish and dressed and boned them all. When it comes to cooking, he said, he relies on the skills he learned from his mother, Annette Smith.

Pan-fried Wild Turkey • Wild turkey breast • Peanut oil • Water • Breading mix Cut turkey breast into pieces approximately 1½ by four inches by 1 inch thick. Pour ½ to ¾ inch peanut oil into a heavy, deep skillet or fish fryer. Heat to 375 degrees over medium high heat. Dip turkey pieces into water, shake off excess, then dip in breading mix. Place turkey pieces in a single layer in the pan. Do not crowd. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Turkey is ready to be turned when a spatula slips easily under it. Check for doneness by cutting into the middle of a piece or use an instant-read meat thermometer. Recommended temperature for turkey is 165 to 170 degrees. Remove and drain on paper towel-lined plate and serve immediately. Variation: Fish fillets may be cooked in a similar manner. Reduce cooking time to about 1 minute per side. Gilbert prefers to use buttermilk in place of water for fish.

— Will Gilbert Virginia Beach firehouse chef

"You don't need to do much with good food," Gilbert said as he placed an enormous cast iron fryer on two of the station stove's six gas burners and measured cooking oil into it. When it comes to frying, the firehouse chef has two requirements: the right oil and the right temperature. Gilbert uses peanut oil heated to 375 degrees.

"That's when a pinch of breading tossed in it swirls around," he explained.

Since two previous attempts to observe Gilbert's firehouse cooking had been thwarted by a spate of dinnertime emergency calls, the logical question became what would happen if the station got a call while a panful of oil was at full sizzle. Not to worry, Gilbert explained, there's a "kill button" to handle the situation. The oversized, wall-mounted switch cuts the power or fuel to anything that could cause the crew to come back to a charred kitchen.

On this evening, the scanner, pagers and cell phones were quiet. Gilbert was able to keep up a steady stream of cooking hints and firefighter humor as he chopped, breaded, fried and chopped some more.

The rest of the crew kept to other parts of the firehouse while he worked.

"Don't worry, they'll show up when they smell the food," he said, nodding toward the back of the building.

The noncooks, who — as predicted — arrived as the aromas began wafting through the station, were not exempt from work. With the precision of a practice drill they readied the table, pulled ice from the freezer and set out plates, glasses, iced tea and condiments.

Just about on cue, Chief Laurie Gurley of Battalion 2 popped in.

Skillet Corn For A Crowd Serves: 10-12, or 6 hungry firefighters • 2-3 pound bacon, diced • 2 medium sweet onions, diced • 5 jalapeno peppers seeded and diced • 2 large packages (4 pounds) frozen corn kernels (see note) • ½ stick butter • Black pepper to taste Using a very large skillet, brown bacon over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until softened, stirring frequently. Add jalapenos and cook for another minute. Add corn gradually, breaking up any frozen clumps. Cook uncovered over medium heat, stirring frequently until heated through. Time will depend on size and depth of pan. Stir in butter and pepper. Note: Kernels from 12 medium ears of fresh corn may be used in place of the frozen corn. — Will Gilbert

It was nearing 6:30 as Gilbert put the finishing touches on a large pan of corn sautéed with bacon, jalapenos and onion. With a nod to his mother's teachings, he topped it off with a chunk of real butter.

"We call margarine yellow grease," he deadpanned.

While today's firefighters are far more health and weight conscious than previous generations, they're still doing tough physical labor.

"I figure calories are like dollars," Gilbert said, "they're better if you earn them."

Firefighters earn them fast when they're climbing ladders wearing 70 pounds of gear and rasslin' a hose with the size and temperament of a boa constrictor.

Healthy steamed broccoli and a salad of tomatoes, lettuce and cucumbers completed the main meal. Dessert would be a company standby — store-bought ice cream.

With all hands at the table, Ladder Capt. Jon Taylor asked the blessing, and the crew and guests dug in. Gilbert had spent nearly an hour and a half preparing the meal. It took the diners perhaps a fifth of that time to polish it off before heading for the ice cream.

Those who hadn't helped in the preparation took care of the cleanup.

No one complained.

It was good, fresh food simply cooked, a meal fit for a down-home dinner.

Annette Smith should be proud.